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Stone Railway Bridge Built in 1879 in Red Hill Valley.
  
  • At least 40 identified archeological sites extending back to 11,000 B.P. including oldest site in Hamilton
  • Location of first school, first church, first public building, and first industries in Hamilton
  • Point of furthest penetration of American armies in War of 1812

A Pendant of Time in Red Hill Valley

(article first published in July, 1993)

The questions are inevitable. The reporter is insistent. What does the discovery of the 4000-year-old native pendant in Red Hill Valley mean for the plans to construct a six-lane expressway there? Does the unearthing of the artifact mean the burial of the highway?

They seem like logical queries, questions that require answers, but somehow they miss the point. The debate over the road has been going on for a little over 40 years; the pendant has been around a hundred times longer. Thoughts about it should run a little deeper than a local political controversy.

It speaks to us about our roots and urges our minds to drift back in time. Its discovery reminds us that fellow humans have lived on this ground for thousands of years.

Long before the Europeans dreamed about a new route to China or even knew such a place existed; people were born, lived their lives and died at the head of the lake.

In those times, much of what is now the lower part of Hamilton was a vast swamp, cut deep with inlets from the bay, and crossed by more than a dozen streams. Scientists and historians tell us the harbour was probably the most productive fish spawning area in Lake Ontario, and the wetland was home or migratory stopover for immense numbers of waterfowl.

Little wonder that the earliest native hunters gathered along the banks of Red Hill, the largest of the streams and the one which lay to the east of the swamp.

Little wonder too that the French priest, Etienne Brule, found an Attiwandaronk (or Neutral) Nation of 35,000 people when he ventured into the Hamilton area in 1615.

Given the soggy state of much of the rest of the bay area, it is also not surprising that the Red Hill Valley played a prominent role in the earliest pioneer history of Hamilton.

Here we find the future city's first school operating on a farm adjacent to the creek mouth in 1790. Four years later, Governor Simcoe had a hotel constructed on the beach on the other side of the creek. The eight-room King's Head Inn was Hamilton's first public building.

Further up the creek, loyalist settlers were laying the foundations for the future industrial character of the city. In 1795, William Davis constructed a sawmill at Albion Falls, followed shortly thereafter by a grist mill. These were the first two industries established in Hamilton. The latter operated into this century and its millwheel has been preserved and mounted in King's Forest Park.

Natural gas was discovered during construction of the mill. An early historian recounts how "two Irishmen were quarrying rock for the wheel pit when one stooped to light his pipe. The match ignited the gas which flared up, singeing his hair, whiskers and clothing. He was terribly frightened and shouted 'Mike, we've broke through into the infernal regions and the devil is after us sure. May all the saints preserve us'."

The gas was used to light the mill for a century, while a little way down the creek, seeping bubbles could produce a flame two feet high on a pool of water. Even today, enterprising hikers can sniff out the spot and collect enough gas to cook their lunch.

Davis also constructed a tavern by the banks of the creek where it cuts through the height of land that now supports King Street. This sand and gravel bar is the shoreline of ancient Lake Iroquois. The low hill stretches right across Hamilton's downtown to Dundurn Castle and out York Road along the area then known as Burlington Heights. In Davis' time, this was the major pioneer road from Niagara, and for eons before that it served as an important Indian trail.

Along it also, 180 years ago this month, came invading American armies bent on annexing all of British North America to the new U.S. republic.

On June 4th, 1813, they arrived at a Wesleyan Methodist church standing near the present site of Stoney Creek Cemetery.

A Hamilton Spectator historian of 1873 takes up the story from there: "The advance encountered Capt. Williams, whom they drove to the west side of the Big Creek (the early name of Red Hill). Williams and his men mounted the west bank of the Big Creek and, firing from thence, killed one man and mortally wounded another who was carried into Davis' tavern."

As darkness was approaching, the Americans decided to fall back to the church. Williams, in the meantime, was able to contact General Vincent at Burlington Heights, and a decision was made to launch a night attack.

The British forces were hurriedly brought down the trail to Red Hill. "On they stole down the west bank of Big Creek, then up the eastern one like a train of noiseless ghosts. Just as they arrived at Davis', the slumbering echoes of the woods awoke upon their ears with the sound of a gun, in the very direction of the enemy."

"The report called for increased caution; some information was gleaned from Davis; and an order went around to have the charges drawn from every gun lest by some accident they should go off and, perhaps, defeat the only scheme by which they could hope for success. They now formed into sections; and with the light companies of the 49th in the van and Vincent at the head of the rear column, they once more proceeded" — to victory in the historic Battle of Stoney Creek.

The banks of Red Hill, then, marked the point of furthest penetration of the invading American forces. The church, on the far eastern edge of its watershed, was another Hamilton first, and only the second built in western Ontario.

By the beginning of this century, the radical transformation of the local landscape was well under way — a process that would drain the wetland, bury all the streams except Red Hill, and fill in more than 25% of the bay to build the industries along Burlington Street.

The past was remembered then too. In 1915, a prominent Hamilton citizen named Frank Wood outlined his local archeological findings in the Papers and Records of the Wentworth Historical Society:

"Many prehistoric implements have been found near the Red Hill creek," he wrote, "which in the time of the Indians was a good salmon stream. Chipping places are found near many parts of its course, also small burial places containing one or two graves. These relics are being continuously turned out."

Today we have another reminder of the ancient inhabitants of Red Hill valley; just a few months after the news that the salmon have returned to the creek for the first time since the 1890s.

Considering how this creek has watered the roots of Hamilton's past — both native and pioneer — maybe it's not surprising that the future of Red Hill has been the subject of such fierce debate.

And perhaps this is the real link between the artifact and the expressway. Slowly turning over a 4000-year-old pendant, one may also pause to wonder what evidence of our civilization will be uncovered in this valley 40 centuries from today — or if there will be someone to find it.

"Think of the forests, and dream of canoes, how the seasons have circled, how the future must choose."

From a song written by Farrell Boyce on the banks of Red Hill Creek.

By Don McLean


© Friends of Red Hill Valley 1991-2005

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